An outdoor air conditioning condenser unit on a concrete pad next to the gray vinyl siding of a residential home.

AC Repair in Greenfield, IN

Air conditioners here run from June through August. If yours quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Hancock County will get in touch.

Tell us about the job

It takes about a minute.

Step 1 of 3: Equipment
Overhead view of an air conditioning condenser unit on a concrete pad next to a house with asphalt shingle roofing and vinyl siding.

Three months of hard running, then storms on top of it

Greenfield only asks for cooling from June through August, but those three months work the unit hard. Summer afternoons average 83°F, and on the hottest days the compressor runs long stretches just to hold the house steady. That kind of steady load wears on the run capacitor and the contactor, the parts that keep the compressor cycling on command. When one of them gives out, the outdoor unit hums or clicks but the compressor won't start, and the house stops cooling.

Hancock County has also seen 24 hail events and 53 damaging wind events over the past ten years, with hail up to 3.4 inches. Hail that size bends the fins on the outdoor coil and can crack the fan blade, and high winds can knock the unit out of level or loosen its wiring. After a storm like that, a system that ran fine the day before may blow warm air or trip off on its own.

3 months
June through August, your air conditioner is on duty
83°F
the average summer afternoon it cools against
24 hail events
in ten years, and hail bends the fins on outdoor coils
53 wind events
in ten years, and wind drives debris into outdoor units
Isometric line illustration of a cutaway single-story building showing interior rooms, ceiling ductwork and an air handler, connected by lines to an outdoor condenser unit beside the exterior wall.
Your air conditioner works hardest from June through August.

NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals

An outdoor air conditioning condenser unit mounted on a concrete pad next to a blue-sided residential house at sunset.

A new air conditioner would save little on running costs in Hancock County, so the repair decision comes down to the unit's condition.

  • A new one at the federal minimum, 13.4 SEER2$240 a year
  • An older air conditioner$260 a year

Estimates for a typical Hancock County home, compared with an older unit built to the previous federal minimum, from EIA household energy data, Indiana fuel prices and NOAA climate normals. Your home will differ.

Repair makes sense when a part like a capacitor or contactor has failed.

Replacement makes sense when the compressor has failed or the system uses R-22 refrigerant, which is no longer made.

In Indiana, HVAC licensing for homes is left to the counties and cities.

Hancock County sets its own rule on who can do HVAC work, and whether a contractor needs a local license here depends on that county or city rule rather than anything from the state. Indiana does not test or license HVAC contractors itself, so there is no state record to check either way. What protection exists comes from whatever Hancock County requires of contractors working inside its lines.

For a repair on your air conditioner, the one rule that applies no matter where the house sits is federal. Any technician who opens the refrigerant side of your air conditioner has to hold EPA Section 608 certification, and that requirement does not change by county or state.

Sources: Indiana Department of Workforce Development · State of Indiana

Why is my AC not blowing cold air?
The most common cause is a dirty air filter choking off airflow across the coil. When that happens the coil can ice up, and once it's iced over it blows warm air until it thaws and the airflow problem gets fixed. Low refrigerant from a leak causes the same thing, and that one needs a contractor to find the leak and recharge it. If the outdoor unit isn't running at all while the indoor blower is, that points to the compressor or a capacitor instead.
Why is my AC leaking water?
Check the condensate drain line first. It's a small tube that carries water away from the indoor coil, and it clogs with algae and dirt over time so the water backs up and drips out instead. A dirty filter can also cause this indirectly, since it leads to a frozen coil that then drips a lot of water when it thaws. If the drain pan itself is rusted through, the pan needs replacing, not just the line.
Why won't my AC turn on?
Start with the thermostat. Check that it's set to cool and the temperature is below the room temperature, and if it runs on batteries, try fresh ones. If the thermostat looks fine, check your breaker panel, since a tripped breaker will keep the whole system dead. When those check out and it still won't start, the problem is likely inside the unit itself, in a capacitor or a control board, and that's a job for a contractor to diagnose.